The Ultimate Guide to Watch Hands Replacement
Replacing your watch hands might sound intimidating — those tiny, delicate pieces can make even seasoned modders sweat. But the truth? With the right tools, a steady hand, and a bit of patience, it’s one of the most rewarding DIY watch repairs you can do.
Whether you’re fixing a scratched second hand, swapping to a new color scheme, or upgrading your movement with fresh components, this guide walks you through everything: tools, technique, alignment, and where to source reliable parts online.
🧭 Why Replace Watch Hands?
There are plenty of reasons you might want to change your watch hands:
Damage: Scratches, bending, or corrosion from moisture.
Customization: You want a different look — matte black hands on a white dial, or luminous sword hands for better visibility.
Upgrading: You’re modding a Seiko NH35 build or restoring an ETA automatic.
Functionality: The old hands touch or drag on the crystal or each other.
Whatever your reason, knowing how to do it properly ensures your watch runs smoothly — and looks professional.
Tools You’ll Need
Before you start, gather the essential watch repair tools. A proper setup not only protects your movement but also makes your work faster and cleaner.
| Tool | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Hand Remover Tool | Safely lifts the old hands without scratching the dial. |
| Hand Press Tool / Hand Setter | Accurately presses new hands onto the pinion. |
| Movement Holder | Keeps your movement stable during work. |
| Protective Dial Film or Plastic Sheet | Prevents marks on the dial. |
| Fine Tweezers | For precise handling of tiny components. |
| Loupe or Magnifying Glass | To ensure perfect hand alignment. |
| Dust Blower & Rodico Putty | Keeps surfaces clean before reassembly. |
You can find most of these in Sugargoo’s watchmaker’s toolkit checklist — or buy them individually from the watch repair tools section.
If you’re new to the hobby, consider investing in a basic starter kit before moving to higher-end tools.
Step-by-Step: How to Replace Watch Hands
Step 1: Prepare Your Workspace
Work on a clean, flat, and well-lit surface.
Lay down a soft pad or microfiber cloth.
Use gloves or finger cots — fingerprints on dials are hard to remove later.
Step 2: Remove the Case Back and Crown
If you’re working on a mod or repair, open your watch case using a case back opener.
Gently pull out the crown and stem to stop the movement and remove the movement from the case.
Tip: Always release the stem at the correct detent position — forcing it can damage the keyless works.
Step 3: Secure the Movement
Place the movement in a movement holder.
Make sure it sits level and doesn’t rock — stability is key to avoid bending pivot shafts.
If you’re working with a Seiko NH35 or NH36 movement, make sure to set the date at midnight to align the hands later correctly.
Step 4: Remove the Old Hands
Set the time to 12:00 — this aligns all hands vertically and prevents interference.
Place a protective plastic film over the dial.
Use a hand remover tool to gently lift the hands. Apply even pressure and keep the tool parallel to the dial.
Remove the second hand first, then the minute, then the hour hand.
Never twist or pull with tweezers — that’s a common rookie mistake that can warp the pinion.
Step 5: Clean the Dial and Inspect the Pinion
Once the hands are off, blow away any dust and use Rodico to pick off particles.
Check the central pinion — it should be straight and not wobbly.
If you see movement damage, stop here. It’s safer to have a professional check the watch movement before reinstalling hands.
Step 6: Install the New Hands
Start with the hour hand. Align it exactly at 12:00.
Use a hand press tool to gently push it down.
Next, place the minute hand on the minute wheel pinion, also at 12:00.
Lastly, install the second hand. Ensure it clears the minute hand smoothly.
After each installation, spin the crown to see if the hands move freely and don’t rub against each other.
If you feel resistance, remove the affected hand and reinstall carefully.
Step 7: Test the Alignment
This is where patience pays off. Look from multiple angles to ensure:
Hands are parallel to the dial.
No hand touches another.
The second hand doesn’t stutter or stop.
Run the movement for a few minutes and check accuracy.
Pro Tip: If you’re working on an NH35/36, make sure the date changes exactly at midnight — not at 11:45 or 12:30. If it doesn’t, slightly adjust the hour hand position and re-seat it.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
| Mistake | Why It Happens | How to Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Scratched Dial | Not using protective film | Always cover the dial when removing hands |
| Bent Hands | Using too much force or the wrong tool | Use a proper hand setter, not tweezers |
| Misalignment | Setting hour/minute hands at different 12:00 points | Always align all hands to 12:00 before pressing |
| Dust Under Crystal | Not cleaning before casing | Use blower and inspect under magnification |
| Stuck Second Hand | Pinion too tight or hand pressed too deep | Re-seat gently using correct height |
Choosing the Right Replacement Hands
When replacing hands, compatibility is key. The hole sizes must match the movement’s pinion diameters exactly.
| Movement | Hour Hand (mm) | Minute Hand (mm) | Second Hand (mm) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Seiko NH35/NH36 | 1.5 | 0.9 | 0.2 |
| Miyota 8215 | 1.5 | 0.9 | 0.17 |
| ETA 2824 | 1.5 | 0.9 | 0.25 |
These measurements might seem small, but even a 0.05 mm mismatch can cause misalignment or slippage.
When in doubt, check the manufacturer specs or consult the seller.
You can browse and purchase accurate watch hands replacements for all major movements — from NH35 to ETA — through Sugargoo’s network of verified Taobao sellers.
Buying Watch Hands and Tools via Sugargoo
Finding authentic replacement parts can be tricky — especially across brands like Seiko, Miyota, or ETA. That’s where Sugargoo, your trusted Taobao agent, comes in.
Here’s why modders love using Sugargoo:
Access thousands of watch parts directly from suppliers in China.
Combine orders easily — movements, tools, straps, crystals — in one shipment.
Get QC photos before shipping to confirm part quality.
Use coupons and combine multiple orders to save on costs.
If you’re new to Sugargoo, it only takes a minute to register your free account and start browsing genuine watch parts, from precision hands to professional repair kits.
Pro Tips from Watch Modders
Always test your movement before casing it up.
Don’t reuse bent or oxidized hands — they’ll cause more issues later.
Avoid pressing too hard when setting hands; let the tool do the work.
Keep spare hands in airtight containers with silica gel packs.
Upgrade your workbench setup over time — a proper loupe, light, and holder make all the difference.
If you’re serious about custom building, explore Custom Watch Parts to design your own combination of hands, dials, and bezels.
🔚 Final Thoughts
Replacing watch hands takes patience, precision, and a few quality tools — but once you’ve done it, you’ll never look at your watch the same way again.
For many modders, it’s the moment they really start feeling confident with their builds. And with resources like Sugargoo, sourcing quality replacement hands and repair tools worldwide has never been easier.
So take your time, line up your hands perfectly, and make every tick count. Because the magic of watch modding isn’t just in how it looks — it’s in knowing you built it yourself.